Kestrel Jenkins PR and Research Associate at GATF talks to Laura Russell about her personal challenge to shop ethically.
Please tell us more about what motivated you to take this pledge.
On Earth Day this past April, I was pondering my next blog. I had already started “MAKE FASHION FAIR” on Valentine’s Day a few months before, but something was making me think, “I need to really make my statements, efforts, and passions concrete in some way”.
To be honest, I believe that many outside contributors influenced this thought: I am an obsessed fashion blog follower, and had been recently anticipating each day’s new outfit on Sheena for the Uniform Project, while following The Sartorialist, Facehunter, and Fashiontoast intently. Also, I had been to the vintage-style, local theatre with my Mom to see Julie & Julia. All these inspirations converged that Earth Day in my vow for the next 365 days.
“In honor of mother earth and her global citizens, I vow to no longer purchase ANY clothing that has been made unethically, or blatantly harmed people or the environment in its making, for the next 365 days. If the available ethical and fair trade labels cannot serve my tastes and desires (as fashion is my passion) — I pledge to only purchase apparel which is re-made or re-cycled – vintage or re-worked.”
So, today I’m am already here in Week 21 and Day 150, while it feels like I just started!
What is your favorite piece of clothing?
My favorite piece of clothing? Ahh, such a difficult question because for me, it’s all about the collaboration amongst various, distinct pieces that truly motivates my style. But, if I had to choose one of my loves, it would be my AW10 Bodkin Proton dress that I purchased from Kind Boutique online. It’s amazingly comfortable, lies beautifully over your shoulders, is made from salvaged rayon and jersey, and is oh, so versatile.
There is a preconception that ethically made clothing is more expensive. Would you agree with this statement?
I definitely hear this statement often. However, I would beg to differ. In my impressions, whether it’s ethical or not, beautiful and well-constructed clothing is generally going to be a bit more expensive. I mean, sometimes you pay for what you get. If the economics are the issue, I think consumers simply have to be more creative in their purchases and the way they style them. For instance, the way I shop has evolved to include thrift stores and vintage shops – the pieces that I buy second-hand are inexpensive, but often unique and/or versatile items. For staples that are new and ethically made, I might pay a higher price, but sometimes as consumers, we need to value quality over quantity.
What is your most expensive item you have purchased?
I bought one of Bahar Shahpar’s pieces from BTC Elements online – the Plunge Cocktail Dress, which cost $149, on sale. It was originally $360, and it is absolutely impeccably made, and completely lined in super-soft organic cotton.
What have you found most difficult in your mission so far?
Thus far, the most difficult aspect of my journey has been locating ethical pieces I want to purchase, while living in small-town Wisconsin. Thank goodness for the Internet and online boutiques because it is definitely not possible to find fair trade or ethical pieces in the stores anywhere near me!
Do you ever cheat?
I do not cheat in my purchases ever. If I really get a craving to wear something different or new, I luckily have the availability to dive into my Mom’s closet and borrow something from her collection. Also – I constantly read the current fashion magazines, page through the J. Crew and Anthropologie catalogues, and collage my favorite looks to quench my fashionista thirst.
Earlier this month you attended the Green Shows in New York. Where in the world are you most inspired by the ethical fashion offering?
I guess it is very dependent on the events taking place in that location. For instance, the Green Shows was exciting — to see 10 ethical designers showcase their collections on the runway was inspirational and a testament to how far ethical fashion has come and where it is going in the future. But, honestly, the venues for ethical fashion shows have exploded, with designers showing ethical collections all over the world.
For me, I was initially inspired by London’s ethical fashion movement while working for Fair Trade Fashion Pioneer, People Tree. From the street markets overflowing with local designers, to the constant media attention about “eco chic” and “ethical” style, to the eclectic east end style, I was wowed by the surrounding ethical and fashion-forward trends. But, today, I believe there are ethical fashion portals evolving in cities all over the world, and I am encouraged by this changing reality.
What will you do after the year is up?
I feel like this is actually the beginning of a new lifestyle statement. At this point, it would feel wrong to go back to purchasing clothing without thinking about where it came from and how it was made. I see myself continuing onward, keeping the pledge at the heart of my purchases.
What advice would you give to readers inspired to take your challenge?
I really think that readers will be more inspired creatively if they take the initiative to challenge themselves to be more responsible shoppers. When you have less excess to work with, styling can become more innovative and interesting; by accessorizing uniquely, you can breathe new life into old styles and endlessly redefine new ethical pieces.
You can follow Kestrel’s journey at her blog Making Fashion Fair.
